

This morning I awoke, read a bit and hit that pavement that curves all around J-bay. The hilly pavement led me astray to the sanded shore. As I walked up over a hill I sat, cradled in the sand watching a storm move on and another move in. The gray colors in the sky blended into one another overtaking the blue hues. With the billows beckoning to the sea, to mirror it’s heaviness.
I sat there, with the crisp chilled wind blowing across my face, burning my bare legs. I sat there on the shore, so far from home, where the water meets. Questions overflowed my heart and it was as if I looked to the sea for my answers. Set after set the waves echoed an answer to my heart; there is adventure ringing true in the depths of this world. Those small waves were crashing on the beach break, but they were just the aftermath from the severe and solid waves of massiveness that were playing beyond my eyesight in the sea’s hub.
Sometimes the silence is the most crowded place, when my thoughts begin to outgrow themselves and my dreams begin to outlive the realm of reality. So I found myself on this beach, 4 months into this adventure, toes in shoes and arms in sleeves, no sun to see but salt to smell. I found myself accepting this opportunity, exactly as it has come, exactly as it has woven itself into my life. I’m finding I’m not the same girl here that I was at home, not with people who know me – falling into days where it seems like I have nothing and no one. But honestly, it feels like falling into freedom.
“All living things contain a measure of madness that moves them in strange, sometimes inexplicable ways. This madness can be saving; it is part and parcel of the ability to adapt. Without it, no species would survive” Am I falling back on some form of inner madness? A madness that in reality keeps me sane and helps me move, helps me dance in the discomfort of formality of a society I have never longed to be a part of? A madness that is saving, because it really is part of the package. When you step out of your front door, and you leave security and you leave all you’ve ever known, even yourself, you have to have your feet steady on something in order to survive.
If you haven’t ventured, if you haven’t seriously stepped into that realm of unknown, into a land where you had to leave yourself and everything you once thought to be true than you, my friend, have no idea of what I am talking about. Because with this madness, when looking to the sea for answers, you don’t know the pain that comes with it. Unfortunately, you don’t know the gain either.
The sea beckons us, the unrevealed and the unfound, the adventure and danger, it beckons to certain souls. Igniting them with a flame that arouses a wanderlust that can only be fulfilled by those waves that are unseen to the people who stay on their own shores. It is those uncharted waves, those that are unrealistic, that can kill you, the ones you find in the stomach of the sea – It is those that keep the flame of the wandering vagabond satisfied.
It’s the beginning of fall, winter’s grand entrance here in Jeffrey’s Bay. With this season comes wind. A cold, strong wind. As my skin feels the change in seasons, my bones feel an urge. A wind going a new direction, a new season in life; I can feel it in my bones, right with that bitter winter wind.
Ian, Jonty, Tristan and I all stood there. My frame easily the smallest of our group; With Tristan and Ian both over six foot with bohemian brunette hair, Jonty just shy of their height with his cheeky blonde hair. We all stood there, 3 surfers and I – wrapped in hoodies, scarves, hats – anything to keep us warm. We stood on the sand, boots barely sinking in, we stood upon a hill with the wind hitting us as strong as it could, frigid and fierce. We stood there, staring at the waves.
A new swell has come to Jeffreys Bay, a swell that makes the surfer’s stoke. A swell that brings in waves that will be talked about along the coast, waves that will be respected. The waves came with an off-shore wind. My eyes absorbed in that alluring blue sea. We watched the surfers fight – they fought the wind, the cold, the current – they fought to stay. To stay, to play. Because you could look out upon bone-chilling water, with a biting wind and heavy, engrossing waves – and it could be ugly. But that was not today.
It was cold yes, but the refreshing, liven you up, type of cold. It was windy yes, but the reviving, new breath, type of wind. We knew each surfer was smiling out there, with each wave’s face being triumphed there was a new stoke planted. The waves were playful, inviting, enticing. The clouds, perfectly painted with accents and hues to kiss the gentle slopes that created each billow.
These blue eyes of mine, stared at a blue sea, at a blue sky today. These blue eyes of mine were entranced by a song that only the waves were playing, a song that nature fell in tune with – that my soul fell in love with. These blue eyes of mine, became the windows for these bones of mine.
These lessons I learn, I write – The refining I retain, I treasure – The challenges I conquer, I captivate. With new seasons, come changes. A change in the wind, a change in the temperature. I can feel it in my bones; a new direction, a new season – quickly approaching with fierce. And the stoke it has startled within my soul is … an urge, a fire, a desire, an arousal, it’s a feeling words cannot portray. A stoke that only a sea-bound sailor knows.

shops, drinking coffee, sitting in book stores. Attending the Colour Conference.
one following was double-overhead clean from the off-shore wind. Beyond these waves, that crashed at my toes I could see the other side of the bay. I was about a mile away and the waves were so large I could see them scoop the water up and then throw it down, playing too hard. They were just dancing in front of the mountain's cliffs that sat like an entranced audience. The whole sea opened up in this bay, I sat there watching the water just roll getting anxious from the groundswell below it, ready to grab some air and then explode into the sky. 6pm I sat in the car, with tangled wind-blown hair, dirty feet and sunburnt lips. By this time the wind was too chilly to be sitting in its path, by this time all the cars and bikes and surfboards left with their owners, by this time the sun was saying good night and the chokka boats were turning on their lights. We sat there watching the final four have at the last set of waves. By this time even the judges were all packed up, over the day's surfing. Eventually we too left the parking lot, every car, van, jeep gone - every longboard, shortboard, boogie board, skim board gone - every bike, piece of trash, towel gone. The land cleared and everyone went home done with surfing for the day, but the waves stayed - they kept rolling in and crashing (I'm sure). It didn't matter to them whether they had surfers playing on them, or sun warming them, they stayed whether it was for the late night chokka boats or for the twinkling stars up above - the waves stayed and crashed carrying on with their life. That was Sunday.
